Today I was reminded that the subway is sometimes a rather alarming place.
Generally I like Seoul Metro- it's clean, reliable and cheap. You can get pretty much from anywhere in the Seoul Metropolitan area to anywhere else; all of Seoul seems to have an underground level with shopping and rushing trains. The map is a bit overwhelming, nine different lines spiderweb out into the suburbs while the downtown of Seoul is a veritable warren of crisscrossing subway lines, making the map resemble a rat's nest more than anything else. Sometimes the rides can be uncomfortable, particularly on the late night trains out of the city when people have to be physically shoved into the cars and no one needs handrails because the train is so fully packed that the bodies of your fellow riders hold you up.
Yesterday's ride started out fine. I was off to visit Kylara's family down in Seouther Seoul, which is quite a trek, so I hopped on the train bright and early with a packed brunch in my bag. There I was, leaning against a rail and munching my peanut butter and jelly when a somewhat elderly man approached me. In Korea, these are known as Ajoshis. He asked me something in Korean and I apologized and explained that I didn't know Korean that well. Ignoring my words and perhaps latching onto the fact that I had replied in Korean, he began to question me- still in Korean. For a few minutes I was able to work out a few of his questions enough to be able to answer to his satisfaction, but then he pointed at his watch and said something I couldn't even begin to understand. I apologized again and he repeated it, a bit louder. I shook my head, curiously said the word for wristwatch (shikhae), shrugged my shoulders and turned away, uncertain whether or not this man was crazy.
I tried to ignore him, a hard task as he was about two feet away and staring irritably at me. Munching my sandwich, I pretended to be enjoying the view of train track junkyards and distant apartments buildings. Maybe he would just go away... No such luck. He watched me for a few seconds before starting in on me in Korean again, saying goodness knows what. At this point, the other riders were beginning to notice the commotion. The Ajoshi repeated his stupid watch question again- what was he asking?- maybe how long I had been in his country? why I wasn't wearing a watch? if i wanted to buy his watch? I shook my head, now feeling a little annoyed myself and distinctly feigning interest in the advertisements posted on the walls of the subway.
My neighbor came to my rescue... or so we thought. She said sorry to me in English and then patiently explained something to the Ajoshi. Probably everything I'd already told him- that I didn't speak Korean and couldn't answer his question. This only served to further enrage said Ajoshi. He began yelling at my hapless neighbor, who replied politely with a smile on her face. They take respect your elders very seriously here and I was tempted start yelling at him in English to leave the poor girl alone, since she was just taking it. He started pointing and screeching, now drawing the attention of the entire car of riders, who stared at the three of us with mingled amusement, alarm and pity. I tried to make myself invisible, and when that failed, I simply shrugged and grinned awkwardly at the staring onlookers.
The Ajoshi stormed away and I breathed a sigh of relief. Some of the other riders were giggling at this point, and I giggled a bit myself. It was ridiculous, and I was sure it was quite a show for everyone who could understand Korean. A foreigner girl staring blankly at an old man who was raging at her in a language she couldn't understand but everyone else could, while another random Korean girl politely told the man to shove it.
My relief came far too early. The Ajoshi was back, pointing at one of us and then the other, yelling in our faces in a manner that suggested we had taken this particular subway ride simply to plot against him. He reached down and picked up my bag (it was at my feet), which I nervously wrested from his grasp. The seemed to be the tipping point. A younger Korean guy came to our rescue by pushing the Ajoshi away and cornering him. Our rescuer and his friend threated the offending Ajoshi in low tones until the old man apologized to my neighbor. He did not apologize to me- rather, he continued to glare until we reached the next stop, where he disembarked and threw a dirty look over his shoulder. Seconds later, a security guard arrived (rather belated, in my humble opinion) and followed him off of the subway.
Ah well. These things happen. I just wish I knew what he was so mad about. I'll never know.
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